Every Place Has a Story

Captain Pybus and Vancouver’s St. Clair Hotel

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A little while ago I was having lunch with Tom Carter and Maurice Guibord at the newly renovated Railway Club. Afterwards, we were walking along Richards Street and Tom gave us a tour of the St. Clair Hotel-Hostel.

The Blushing Boutique is on the ground floor and a set of very steep stairs takes you up to the Hostel. The whole interior is designed in a nautical theme, which I guess isn’t surprising since it was designed by architect Samuel Birds for Captain Henry Pybus.

The four-storey brick building at 577 Richards Street was finished in 1911 and initially known as the Dunsmuir Rooms until 1930 when it became the St Clair Rooms. It sits next door to BC Stamp Works, which was built in 1895 as a boarding house.

When Pybus was building his commercial block, it looks like the owner at BC Stamp Works (583 Richards) took the opportunity to have the first floor lifted so a retail store or offices could be added—one of Vancouver’s few remaining buried houses.

Captain Henry Pybus in 1909. Courtesy CVA Port P1645

Pybus captained the Empress of China, and later and the Empress of Japan—a white clipper-ship, which with Pybus at the helm, held the record for crossing the Pacific for over 20 years. Pybus retired in 1911 at age 60. The Empress of Japan was decommissioned in 1922 and left to rot in Vancouver Harbour. Fortunately, the editor of the Province heard she was to be scrapped and had his staff rescue her dragon figurehead, donated it to the city, and it sat in Stanley Park until 1960 when it was replaced with a fiberglass replica. (The original was restored and remains with the Vancouver Maritime Museum).

The dragon figurehead from the Empress of Japan in 1936. Courtesy CVA Bo N83.1

According to Michael Kluckner’s Vanishing Vancouver, the South African born Pybus, fancied himself as a speculator and owned a bunch of property around the city—including a pre-fab Model J BC Mills house that sat at East 1st and Lonsdale from 1908 until 1995 when it was moved—and remains at—Lynn Headwaters Regional Park.

Pybus’s BC Mills House now at Lynn Headwaters

Pybus lost most of his properties in the land crash of 1913/14. He spent the rest of his long life in the West End and died in 1938. Fifty years later, his grandson, Henry Pybus Bell-Irving became the 23rd Lieutenant Governor of BC

What’s surprising, is how little change there has been on the Richards Street block. The retail space below the St. Clair started as a storefront for the United Typewriter Company, became the Vancouver Auction Rooms in the ‘20s, and by 1930 was the headquarters for Pluto Office Furniture. BC Stamp Works, the St. Clair and the office furniture business were still co-existing 25 years later, and not much has changed in the years since.

Top photo: The St. Clair Hotel and BC Stamp Works on the 500-block Richards Street in 1985. Courtesy CVA 790-1797

© All rights reserved. Unless otherwise indicated, all blog content copyright Eve Lazarus.

The Sinking of the Princess Sophia

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On October 23, 1918– six years after the sinking of the Titanic—the SS Princess Sophia sailed out of Skagway, Alaska. Four hours later the ship slammed into a coastal reef killing all aboard. These men and women formed the backbone of the North and it was a devastating tragedy for the Pacific Northwest. More than 60 people are buried at Mountain View Cemetery. This is an excerpt from my book Sensational Victoria

I first heard about the Princess Sophia in 2004 when the Vancouver Maritime Museum held a memorial service for the 350 passengers and crew killed in 1918. The Museum had recently acquired the ship’s bell from Betty Mantyla. Betty was given the bell by her grandmother, who was given the bell by a diver.

When the Princess Sophia sailed out of Skagway 94 years ago, it was the final voyage of the year before the big freeze set in and she was jammed from cabin to steerage. There were pioneers of the gold rush, riverboat captains, 50 women and children, and newly enlisted soldiers on their way to fight in the Great War. Lulu Mae Eads was aboard, the same Lou that Robert Service wrote about in The Shooting of Dan McGrew. There were 24 horses and five dogs in the hold.

The Princess Sophia stuck on Vanderbilt Reef, October 25, 1918
The Princess Sophia stuck on Vanderbilt Reef, October 25, 1918

Captain Leonard Locke, 66, had spent his life at sea and had made this voyage many times. But four hours after setting sail, the Sophia slammed into Vanderbilt Reef. The Sophia wasn’t taking on water and Locke felt that the ship could float free off the reef at high tide. But the wind increased and the snow thickened, and after almost 40 hours the Sophia slid backward off the rocks and went stern-first into the sea. The boilers exploded. Those passengers not trapped inside the ship, suffocated in the oil from the fuel tanks.

Those bodies that were recovered returned to Vancouver on the Princess Alice on November 11, 1918—the day the war ended.

The sinking of the Princess Sophia was a devastating tragedy for the Pacific North West
Captain Leonard Locke

An inquiry found that the ship was lost through “peril of the seas” and not through the fault of Captain Locke. Newspapers blamed him anyway.

Legal battles stretched on until the early 1930s. Emily, Locke’s widow received $2,249.99. The passengers’ relatives got nothing.

There have been books written about the Sophia, but unlike the Titanic which had little effect on the Pacific North West, most people have never heard of the disaster.

I met Syd Locke, the grandson of Captain Locke at the memorial service. He lives in Seattle. His father Frederick, was one of Locke’s five children with wife Emily. Born in 1891, he was with the Canadian Engineers during WW1 and drowned in a tugboat accident in Seattle when Syd was 11.

1005 Cook Street was built for Captain Locke and his wife Emily in 1906. Photo courtesy Victoria Heritage Foundation

“All of my ancestors have drowned as far back as anybody remembers. My mother wouldn’t let me go to sea. ‘It’s going to end here,’ she said.”

Although Syd never met his grandfather, what upsets him most is that accounts of the shipwreck don’t address the human side of the tragedy. There was Walter Gosse, for instance, a lookout and the younger brother of second officer Frank Gosse. Both brothers were at a dance. Frank made the sailing, but Walter was left behind. And there was Archibald Alexander, chief engineer from Victoria, who stayed behind because his twin daughters were seriously ill with Spanish flu. “How did he feel when all his friends went down?” asks Syd.

The shingled Edwardian house at 1005 Cook Street in Victoria that Locke built in 1907 is still there. The house is now a commercial building and has a heritage designation.

© All rights reserved. Unless otherwise indicated, all blog content copyright Eve Lazarus.