Every Place Has a Story

The Lost Cemetery of Stanley Park

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Mountain View Cemetery may have been Vancouver’s first official cemetery when it opened in 1886, but Stanley Park was first.

Bodies had been buried on Deadman’s Island in Coal Harbour for thousands of years, and those who didn’t want their relatives interred  alongside the socially undesirable, the diseased or unchristened, moved their burials further into Stanley Park.

This story is from Vancouver Exposed: Searching for the City’s Hidden History

Maurice Guibord estimates there are around 200 bodies buried between Brockton Point Lighthouse and the Nine O’Clock Gun
The Pioneer Cemetery:

“Its very association with the First Nations and Chinese immigrants thus designated Deadman’s Island as a resting place for the pagan, the unchristened, and the socially and culturally anathematized,” says local historian Maurice Guibord.

The stretch of land from Brockton Point Lighthouse to the Nine O’Clock Gun had always been a burial ground for the Indigenous people who lived there, but as Gastown was settled it also became an alternative burial ground known as the Pioneer Cemetery.

ca. 1945 CVA 298-056
Chinese burials:

Chinese people were initially buried there, but for most, it was only temporarily. The custom was to return the bones to China eventually, so the graves were shallow to allow for faster decomposition and to facilitate exhumation. Once the body had turned to bones, they were dug up by bone collectors, cleaned, packaged and returned to China. Failure to do this was said to create po—homeless and malevolent ghosts who stuck around and haunted living relatives.

Maurice believes that there are up to 200 bodies still buried there along the peninsula, including the remains of settlers, some Chinese people and the indigenous people who had abandoned the custom of above-ground burials.

Unmarked graves:

The graves weren’t officially marked and the burials weren’t recorded, so when the perimeter road was built around the park in the late 1880s, the bodies were just paved over. “They are buried under the road, under the trees, under the bike path and the walkway. They are all through there,” says Maurice.

Something to think about the next time you’re sitting in the car park or taking a walk along the Seawall.

For more ghostly stories check out these podcast episodes:

S1 E9 Three Ghost Stories and a Murder

S2 E24 Halloween Special 2021

Victoria’s Ghost

© All rights reserved. Unless otherwise indicated, all blog content copyright Eve Lazarus.

 

Aborted Plans: Deadman’s Island

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Members of the Town Planning Commission passed a resolution stating that they were not in favour of Deadman’s Island as a site for a proposed museum of Vancouver art, historical and scientific society. It was declared the Coal Harbour site was too inaccessible—Province: April  9, 1932

It continues to amaze me that Stanley Park has survived, despite all the attempts to develop it over the years.

In 1912, there was a push to “transform” Lost Lagoon into Grand Round Pond, with a surrounding museum, stadium and amusement park. There would be ornamental gardens, fountains a children’s playground, library and Georgia Street would be the “Champs-Elysees.”

Plans for Lost Lagoon in the Vancouver Sun, December 28, 2018

Fortunately, commonsense prevailed. Said Mayor James Findlay: “Thomas Mawson may be the finest architect in the world, but he cannot put Stanley Park back for us once it is destroyed.”

In the 1960s and ‘70s there were three attempts to turn Seasons Park—the 14 acres at the entrance—into a massive hotel and condo complex.

Sharp and Thompson Architects drawing of a proposed museum at Deadman’s Island in 1930. Courtesy VPL #7899

And in the early ‘30s there were plans to plop a castle-like museum building complete with citadel, on Deadman’s Island.

Sharp and Thompson Architects drawing of the Pacific Museum for Deadman’s Island. Courtesy VPL #7898

Measuring just 3.8 hectares, and attached to Stanley Park by a short causeway, Deadman’s Island, or Skwtsa7s (meaning island), has an amazing history. It was a battle site. It was an indigenous burial ground, where the dead were placed in wooden coffins and buried both in the ground and up in the trees. When small pox hit, it was used to quarantine the victims, and later bury those who didn’t make it. The land has also claimed British Merchant seaman, people from Moodyville, victims from the Great, and workers killed while extending the CPR line from Port Moody to Coal Harbour. One article says West Vancouver’s Navvy Jack is buried there.

Deadman’s Island seen just behind the second CPR station at the foot of Granville Street in the early 1900s. Courtesy VPL #9834

In 1930, the federal government leased the island to the city. Shortly after, the city commissioned Sharp and Thompson Architects to draw up designs for Pacific Museum. It didn’t get very far, and in 1944, became the site of HMCS Discovery Naval Reserve.

When the 99-year lease came up for renewal in 2007, Mayor Sam Sullivan tried to make it publicly accessible. He told the Globe and Mail he wanted a ferry service from downtown and a museum that could preserve and display the maritime heritage of native people.

Vancouver in 1933 with Deadman’s Island in the background. Courtesy VPL 4368

The Musqueam just wanted it back.

Except for an open house once or twice a year, which I always seem to miss it, the site remains off limits.

Sources:

© All rights reserved. Unless otherwise indicated, all blog content copyright Eve Lazarus.

Celebrating National Aboriginal Day with the Musqueam

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National Aboriginal Day is June 21
A map of Vancouver from the Musqueam perspective

The Vancouver Heritage Foundation is piloting a project with the Musqueam Indian Band to offer a tour of Vancouver from a slightly different perspective then the usual whip around Stanley Park, Spanish Banks and the Museum of Anthropology. Actually, we did all those things on a four hour bus ride, but we also got some insights into traditional Musqueam territory and why several well-known sites hold significance for them.

National Aboriginal Day
Terry Point at a 5,000 year old Midden. Jason Vanderhill photo.

Our first stop was at a fenced-in piece of dirt in Marpole underneath an airport runway. Appearances are deceiving, because this site was once part of a thriving settlement for the Musqueam. According to our guide Terry Point, the land has been occupied for 5,000 years and is one of the most significant archaeological sites in Canada.

Over the years, archaeologists have found carved stone bowls, sculptures, arrowheads, stone tools and skeletons encased in copper. And, while it was declared a National Historic Site of Canada in 1933, that didn’t stop the building of the Fraser Arms Hotel destroying a chunk of it in the 1950s.

As recently as 2011, the City of Vancouver issued a building permit to Century Holdings and it looked like the Marpole Midden would be turned into a 108-unit condo development. But work stopped when the remains of an adult and two small children were discovered, kicking off a Musqueam vigil that went for over 200 days.

The Musqueam subsequently bought back the land from the developer and in 2018, the City returned a parcel of land next to the pub which had been used as a parking lot.

Most of the sites we visited were former warrior villages, and they were a vicious lot back in the day. They used to put their enemies heads on stakes at the mouth of the Fraser to keep out unwelcome visitors, and they buried their dead up in trees, leaving the bodies to rot and later gathering up the bones.

That’s of course how Deadman’s Island in Stanley Park got its name.

Many of the roads we travelled—including Granville Street—were once a network of trails that spread out all over the city and were used by runners to warn the villagers of impending attacks or visitors.

Terry’s aunt, the renowned Coast Salish artist Susan Point, carved the stunning gateway portals that mark the entrance to Stanley Park and the Stanley Park totem poles. These, we are told, are the most visited tourist attraction in B.C.

Terry Point at Spanish Banks. Jason Vanderhill photo.
Terry Point at Spanish Banks. Jason Vanderhill photo.

We ended the tour at the Musqueam Cultural Centre in time to celebrate National Aboriginal Day. There is another tour on Sunday July 27. See the Vancouver Heritage Foundation for details.